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:: BANDARPOONCH :: |
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Bandarpoonch
is an exquisite peak in the Western Himalayas of North India.
It stands at the western edge of the High Himalayan Range
where it turns northwest at an altitude of 20,720’ (6316 m.)
and is easily accessible with a scenic three-day hike. The
Southwest ridge offers a route of moderate difficulty with
little technical climbing. |
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The expedition can be successfully concluded in
14 days in good conditions with a strong team from the staging
and acclimatization area. The most common route is from the
northeast and is easily climbed in good weather and snow
conditions. It is usually climbed several times a year from
the north. |
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Getting There |
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The best
staging and acclimatization area is the hill resort of
Mussoorie (7,000') 6 hours by taxi from Delhi. From Mussoorie
it is about a 5 hour taxi ride to the trailhead at Sangam
Chatti (4500'). It takes you through the town of Uttarkashi
(3800') 15 km from there, the last "civilization", where you
can cash foreign exchange, buy fruits and vegetables and find
clean sheets. |
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The trail begins after crossing a
wide footbridge and climbs to the village of Agora 2 hours
away where 'furnished' rooms are available, and Bevara (7500')
almost an hour further away where in addition to bare rooms
good campsites are available. Most people stop here for the
night. The next day is a 7 hour hike to Dodital Lake (10,000)
where good campsites and a few rooms in a forest rest house
are available with prior arrangements. Well acclimatized
groups may move over the 13,000' Darwa Pass the next day and
camp in the Hanuman Ganga River valley at 11,500'. Firewood is
available at this stage and can still be used at current rates
of traffic, but should be used frugally. The next day will put
climbers near the base of the mountain and base camp. |
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Red Tape |
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A trail fee of
about $1.00 is to be paid at Dodital Lake for upkeep of the
trail to the caretaker there. Camping fees are about 2 dollars
at Dodital. Summit fees have recently been raised heavily to
$2,400 for foreigners for a group of up to 12. |
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This area
is a national preserve and no hunting or harvesting of plants
is permitted though the indigenous population has free access
to use what they need. In July and August some poaching of
medicinal plants takes place. |
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When to Climb |
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The
mountain is usually climbed in May or June when most of the
snow storms have passed. However April has the advantage of
snow covering approach difficulties, and fewer crowds at
Dodital Lake which has become popular of late. Spring flowers
are also blooming in abundance and animals are more visible.
The plains of India are also less hot. |
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There is a
risk of a spring snowstorm in April when a foot or two is not
unusual. The post monsoon season in Sept., Oct. has the least
snow but early season storms are a danger in late Oct. A
winter climb should only be attempted with snowshoes. |
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Route Information |
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The
southwest route that I have taken is up the left bank of the
Hanuman Ganga River Valley through the Bugyal (alpine meadow)
to the head of the valley called Beeaan. Climb the hills in a
gully to the right at the end of the Bugyal and climb to a
plateau known as Deodamni. Next descend one of the less steep
gullies which meet the fork in the Hanuman Ganga and follow
the main channel (to the right) which leads to the source of
the Hanuman Ganga at the bottom of the face. This is filled
with large boulders. Progress is aided by snow cover (like in
mid-April). |
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As you
approach the face you will see a prominent gully in the massif
flanked on the left by a large buttress. Follow the gully and
gain the top of the buttress to the left where a good campsite
is available. Beware this gully is an avalanche chute |
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